Last days in Goa

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Eagles..
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Almost prehistoric looking place, this is a peninsula with igneous rock and giant man swallowing fissures. The foliage is bizare and alien to the rest of the landscape, there are Leemurs in the trees and Giant Eagles by the truckload..
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Pen? You have Pen? The local Hells Fairies gang came out to meet me and ask me if I had any pens for them..
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Fisherman repair their nets. Amazing to watch the unity at with they work and the speed.
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Goa recieved its independence from Portugal later then India did from the Commonwealth. There are still strong vestiges of their past around north goa. Architecture, churches, and Nuns!
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Blessed wax body parts outside the church od St Francis of Xaviour.
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St Francis of Xaviour. was not recognized as a saint by the rest of the Catholic church.
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Consumerism is coming to India whether you like it or not, and its swallowing up the hearts and minds of everyone.
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I wonder what Bryon Gysin would have thought of this.
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Here he ism entombed, and his body hasnt decayed one iota since his death..
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I dont know whose ones these are but they have writin’ on them!
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Lets put this int perspective here, Islam, Hindu Sikh’s and al the rest no one knows how to do children scaring grotesque quite like catholics..
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yes, its a wall of death..
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Original hippy town..
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Cool kids checking the white guys out at the barber..
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Some Germans on the beach had a hot air balloon. Ive never seen one of these actually ever take off..
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Fisherman in Galjibag Confluence.

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More from Goa

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Bhopal to Goa – Southern India Railways

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Station Porters. For a fee they will transport your stuff from the car to the area of the platform your carriage will arrive. They can gauge with exactitude where the carriage you are supposed to be at will arrive. I watched in complete and utter astonishment as this young short guy sprang towards us wearing a red shirt with a brass plate on his sleeve and a red scarf. he negotiated a price and then rolled up his scarf and put it like a donut on his head, then grabbed my trunk and scooped it up with a deft one body move and placed it on his head, and his colleague picked up my backpack and placed that on top of the trunk -a whopping 235kg load- and the he swept through the masses and onto the platform like a waft, fast and definitive. I had difficulty following him. Just completely amazing to witness that..
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Muslims pray on the station platform.
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Muslims pray on the station platform, everyone in the station stared at them. India is funny in that way. Its a multicolored society and yet they will stare at muslims praying in public.
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Bidis, or Beedees, an indin cigarillo made from a Banana tree leaf made into a pulp and dried for smoking and then the paper is actually another leaf, whipped with cotton string. 15 Rupee for 25.. Indians get a real kick out of a white man smoking Bido’s. I use them to break the ice for conversations with strangers, and to get photographs with also.
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Kumbh Mela Pilgrims in a station I dont remember the name of in a place somwhere between Goa and Bhopal
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Water. When the train stops the people on the Class III carriages all spill out and clamber for the water.
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Everything is Organic. Snacks for Class III but I thought their food was nicer then the onboard Class IIAC food
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Its like a Constable painting.

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Catching up..

I havent done enough to render writing a blog entry but I do have a few days worth of images to put up.. These are the last of the Bhopal Images and then some more. Bhopal -if I havent already said it is a predominantly Muslim city, I am utterly fascinated by the women and their multi-level attire. The Hajib is typically black and covers everything but the feet hands and eyes; but the eyes have it.. you can tell so much about a person by their eyes, especially when the rest of their bodies are covered.

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Opticians in central Old Bhopal. Cant resist the mirror shots..
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Standard fair telephone system in Indian cities. They syphon off anything they can from the main wires. There is some kind of order here I just know it..
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Paan. Paan is a interesting “snack” made of about 9 ingredients which very depending on the locale. Read this for more.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paan I cant chew it because the bits get stuck in my teeth, and the concept is that you jam this package in the space between your cheek and your teeth and you chew and suck and then spit.. On long road journeys or train journeys you will typically see dried Paan spit slattered down teh sides of vehicles. Its a burgundy maroon colored substance when dry.
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Feed me.
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If I didnt already have a hotty Id consider putting one of these in the stranger and the NYT..
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The little ones love the camera.
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The eyes have it, and the eyes always will…
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Theres a sweet innocence in countries that dont have modernity. Children play with eachother and are typically motivated and happy. Theres a profusion of Kites and kite flying in Western Asia, and the children play with these very simple little squares of paper or cloth on a cross of thin wood, advertisers caught on and now many of them have beer commercials on them. I caught this one mid shoot on the Bhopal film, caught between two wires. I love the Asymmetry.
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Many younger women of non islamic traditions have adopted the Hajib so that they can go hang out with their boyfriends or scoot around late at night downtown where they drink pop and hang out it parks malls and romantic lookouts. Police used to tell them to go home and be respectful but because of the Hajib the police can nolonger identify non muslims -its a major offense to ask a woman to reveal her face when she is covered by a Hajib.
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Double Damage!
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Hey boy thats a mighty big tyre you are playing with there..
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Bhopal Disaster memorial. Hindu rememberance.
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Two famous people who were at ground zero when the Union Carbide disaster occurred December 1984 in Bhopal. One is a Muslim and the other a hindu, both equally effected and both hand in hand in memorium to the many that were killed in the biggest chemical disaster in history.
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Marigold & Incense Hindu tradition for purification.
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Marigold & Incense Hindu tradition for purification. Muslim and Hindu together.
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There is an infamous image of a partially buried infant which has ultimately become the poster image for the Union Carbide Disaster which can be seen here http://old.studentsforbhopal.org/Assets/Images/baby-raghurai10.jpg The sad fact of the matter is that The land that the original grave site and crematorium is now located on has been partially sold off. The Indian govt. seems not to care about the importance of the site itself. There is a small garden and memorial plinth in its recognition, but the garden doesnt extend into the area where the bodies were put on pyres and cremated and where the infant and other children were buried. Unfortunately now, this area is fallow, it looks like an orchard but its actually a dump, and there is the ubiquitous trash, dried feces, garbage and plastic bags strewen haphazardly around the area. On the day we made a small area for recognition of those buried and cremated there. Very sad.
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There is an infamous image of a partially buried infant which has ultimately become the poster image for the Union Carbide Disaster which can be seen here http://old.studentsforbhopal.org/Assets/Images/baby-raghurai10.jpg The sad fact of the matter is that The land that the original grave site and crematorium is now located on has been partially sold off. The Indian govt. seems not to care about the importance of the site itself. There is a small garden and memorial plinth in its recognition, but the garden doesnt extend into the area where the bodies were put on pyres and cremated and where the infant and other children were buried. Unfortunately now, this area is fallow, it looks like an orchard but its actually a dump, and there is the ubiquitous trash, dried feces, garbage and plastic bags strewen haphazardly around the area. On the day we made a small area for recognition of those buried and cremated there. Very sad.
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The UC Disaster memorial plinth in Hindi with Marigold garland.
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Hindu & Muslim together at the UC memorial Bhopal MP India.
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Those hands helped bury and cremate bodies.
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Respect the hand that worked to tirelessly bury and cremate the bodies from the UC Disaster.
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Ahhhh! Traffic!
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Legacy hotel Bhopal.
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Wedding!
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IRREVERSABLE. That intense french film, reminds me of this place a horrible turkish bath in Bhopal, nasty hot humid and greasy I was convinced that I was going to slip and skull myself.. fucking disgusting place.
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IRREVERSABLE. That intense french film, reminds me of this place a horrible turkish bath in Bhopal, nasty hot humid and greasy I was convinced that I was going to slip and skull myself.. fucking disgusting place.
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IRREVERSABLE. That intense french film, reminds me of this place a horrible turkish bath in Bhopal, nasty hot humid and greasy I was convinced that I was going to slip and skull myself.. fucking disgusting place. Fat greasy men playing funny games in the dark.

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INTERDEPENDENCE.

In my 20s I decided that I was going to try my level best not to own a car before I was 40. and so I never owned a car before I was 40. And so the theory is that I will learn to ride a scooter here in Goa and then use it for the liberation of the natives to my righteous new message which my people are working on as we speak. Perhaps Ill have to get into the rat-race of car ownership if I ever get back to city life. I hate the reality of it but love the concept and the independence.

 

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Out the window of the train.
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Tribal women in Bhopal, with their very interesting facial tattoos. Tattoos of any kind are not very common as far as I can tell in India.
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…trippy dude… Tribal art, some of this is 2 weeks old some of it is 200 years old..
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eh.. yeah.. This is not a theme park this is a a tribal area, and these things look like disney. I can only imagine what these are like from the air..
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The manager of the whatever bank in Bhopal is Gay and he had these flags put up around the parking lot. Can you imagine Todd Maclin of Chase or Brian Moynihan of BoA doing that?
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Seen on a cool kids’ shoulder in new Bhopal. Im sure theres more I could caption it with but I cant be bothered.

 

Fun Times in Indias Socially Changing Landscape.

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Still learning the finesses of nuspeak here in the rapidly changing landscape of entrepreneurial India.. Ill take a WTF for here please and a ThumbsUp -no ice..
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Thats the best place to put the bouncing castle, and stem current population growth. DB Mall in Bhopal, Malls are gargantuan here, and around them is typically wasteland.
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The last of the Wandering Minstrels. Men who float around with their worldly possessions seeking to play music for a few rupee. A seriously dying breed, perhaps less then a decade from now these people will most likely no longer exist.
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The Pony Kids of Dublin have definitely had an influence here me thinks…
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New Bhopal, I didnt come to this part of town much because its pretty homogeneous cleaner and people are not as friendly.
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In traffic, everyone is facing each other beeping horns and shouting at each other, and amazingly enough amidst the foray there is functionality, every gets to go and no jam lasts more then a few seconds.
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Chai! My favorite, black tea, ginger, salt, sugar, milk and cream. Served hot, fast and sweet. Its the best thing in the world! The salt recipe is strictly an Islamic thing. I love the glasses, like ice-cream cones, tables are merely a grid of lats that the glasses sit in..
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Compliments of the house sir please take my picture.
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TILA CAFE JAMALPURA, Islamic Cafe in the old part of town where the traffic is OFF THE FUCKING CHARTS…..

Union Carbide Bhopal, preliminary images.

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This is the remaining presence of the former Union Carbide Plant
This is the remaining presence of the former Union Carbide Plant

 

20130201.SOMEONE TOLD ME THE DATE AND IT DIDNT SEEM TO MATTER.

Every Garment I have used in the past six days has a reminder of what I was doing in that garment the last time I wore it. Its either what i left in the pockets or the smell of the garment. despite washing my own clothes with DrBronners or even with body soap, underneath the smell of freshness I can smell the trace element of a previous event, and thats not a bad thing either because this is pat of subconscious journaling of information, like blogging is a conscious journaling of information.

Right now I am in Goa. Im working on seeing with microphones rather then cameras..

In cities you are forced to contend with encapsulation and the country you are forced to contend with expanse.

20130131. CRAVINGS

This is the start of week 3 and I feel like Ive been here a lifetime already. Hank said time would speed up for me and slow down for everyone else, (or the other way around I cant remember which), but I remember thinking that it was one of those epiphany moments in text that doesn’t become reality until you think about it later on and realize that somebody already told you. Ive done so many new things and met so many new people and seen other peoples lives and investigated legendary stories and unearthed things about stuff and seen things first hand that had only ever been mythological as far as I was concerned. And in that time the amazement is that I got this far in only three weeks. Whats probably more revelatory is that its probably mostly down to being locked up in that shit-show with the dysfunctional band of degenerate oddballs pushing out of date work to people who didn’t know any better. The more Im out of there the more I scratch my head about how on earth I managed to get so low as to feel that working there was in any way good. Well life is a learning curve.

 

So Im enjoying the tribal leaf cigarillo called Bidi, a single leaf rolled to house crushed leaf itself. Its a very mild and short smoke, its easy. Unlike trying to find a fucking light.. Indian matches are seriously fucked. A matchbox which contains 35 matches will give you a headache by the time you are done. They break, they dont need to be struck because they flare so easily and it takes two matches to get a strike and then they are out before they get to their destination. Then at the end you realize that the cardboard box is actually made of wood also and then covered with cardboard.

So then leads to the other issue, of trying to find a lighter. Any lighter anywhere in any shop. Finally I found a metal chrome clipper rip-off which is a hilarious concept to think that clippers were the ultimate refillable lighter priced like a chuck-away.

 

This is the week of cravings. I really didnt want to be one of those people who hankers longingly for some piece of home, but there you have it, I had a craving for what I remembered as a kid in Ireland, and because this is a post colonial country there are still vestiges of the colonial tastes available in the shops. Cadburys chocolate made with Cane sugar not sugar-beet and rich milk, its divine.. better then the New Zealand stuff and better then the UK stuff too.. ..and theres no such thing as Hershey’s here either, none of that toilet scrubbing shit here. Polo Mints, like Lifesavers in the US but better and CHEAP 20rps for 5 packs!!! I spend most of my time giving them away to children for some smiles, I may have the sweet tooth of a hyperactive fiver year old as Jenny says but I so couldn’t eat 5 packs of Polo Mints. As for Indian chewing-gum.. well it aint Wrigley’s Ill say that much. Again about 20 packs for 80rps. The chewing gum here makes me fart.

The best part is that I went to get a bottle of CocaCola and was nicely surprised to find that its still original formula here and less carbonation in it too. The Cane sugar is less sweet and is actually better for you then the US Government funded Corn Syrup shit that is in everything in the US. When the corner store owner asked me if that was all I wanted I said yes and gave him the thumbs up with I attributed to being the universal sign of all things good. He said “ok thumbs up sir” and of course I said yet and then he pulled out a 2L bottle of ThumbsUp an Indian CocaCola variant, but apparently had been around almost as long as Coke and is of different ingredients, but tastes better then Coke itself, and ironically is now owned by the CocaCola Company itself. As corporations go I think think CocaCola has has any real crimes or misdemeanors that have tipped the scales in a long time, Im open to correction on that. Ive also heard that they are using their incredible and amazing distribution network to extend fresh water to remote towns and villages in parts of India, and there is no branding on that water either. Oddly enough, a corporation that may not suck..

From Jan 22 2013

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No its not organic, its called India Telecoms.. literally stealing signal from the telephone cables. I love it!
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Maruti Suzuki, the India branded Suzuki, this thing is a fucking tank. at 40mph it takes large potholes with ease. It has a turning radius of a dime and it runs on vapor. This is the economy version complete with punch-outs for luxuries. If American cars were made like this…..
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Damn what a handsome fellow! I think this guy is the Lee Marvin of Bhopal, and hes a cool fucker too because he and his brother here are the only remaining British Motocycle repair techs in India! Specifically Royal Enfield Bullet.. what a machine.. used mostly by the colonialists the country has a ton of them and they are highly prized.
Also there are thousands of ‘Britisher’ jeeps still around they are also highly prized and worth unlawful amounts of money!
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There are millions -literally Millions- of Piagio’s and Vespas here, old ones, originals with no modifications and they are all still running. In some ways this country is a massive step back in time..
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View from the Mosque.. Im having a really hard time trying to ID the names of streets because my iPhone connection is 2G and its really slow and blah blah I just cent ever seem to get my head around the names of streets at all here. I know them by view..
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The Grand Mosque..
this place is so beautiful… a ‘mini’ pink Taj Mahal north central Bhopal.
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Overlooking the shanty towns from that new Bridge which pretends to make the Union Carbide plant not be there.. the “New Bhanpur Bridge Rd”
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Not really supposed to make pictures in here.. its the main Police Station. I love how these guys are all drinking tea and chatting whilst the chaos of bureaucracy and paperwork and rubber stamps and the mill of people flow around them like leaves clogging a drain..
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Home made bike repair tools.
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The ZZ Top guy of the Lee Marvin Motorbike repair cave.
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Watching construction here is –INSANE– everything is manual. Men and Women work, carrying bowls of sand or gravel (can you imagine how heavy that shit is??), on their heads like worker Bees and ferry backwards and forwards from piles to the cement mixer, where a foreman will take two bowls of gravel and two bowls of sand to mix in with lime and then turns the mixer over and dumps its load into a bucket which is then hoisted by its own weight to the next floor up.. where the bowl people start ferrying the mixed cement through the latticework steel-reo and literally shove it off their heads and into place, other worker bees then come along and smooth it out and the whole process works like clockwork, its totally insane and I could watch it all day.. and apparently they could have watched me all day too. Ive been buying Bidi’s here (a dried leaf rolled and smoked) for leverage and to help me get more pictures, I went through two packs of them just shooting these amazing workers…..
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Me looking shamefully plump and healthy in front of the Bhopal Union Carbide Disaster monument. The locals dont really give a shit, and the monument had to have a guard rail put around it because of vandalism. Thats what happens when your government breeds ignorance.
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What I look like in India. A day before I got food poisoning.
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I went to restaurant to eat good clean light food after I got sick, it was quiet and a little uncomfortable until a massive Hindu family dating party arrived where the grown-ups and kids sat at one table and the horny teenagers sat at another table taking pictures of each other with smartphones and flirting with each other. The guy in grey was our waiter, he was so nervous of me because I dont think many Bhopalis see many white people, my colleague says Im “exotic” by their standards. Everywhere I go people stare at me, its very strange, and if I nod, smile or wink they all give me big smiles and waves. If they see the camera then traffic stops so that I can take their pictures.. no shit.
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On a street corner somewhere north east near the tribal areas. Very cool.
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Bhopal has its own version of Petra ~Las Vegas Style!!!
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More Pictures from the Police station, these are tribal elders who have been cast out of their tribes.. there isnt much else worse then this for a tribal member, especially for an elder. My understanding is they were cast out because of a disagreement.
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Scenes from the Police Station where we went to get permission to shoot inside the Union Carbide factory.
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Scenes from the Police Station where we went to get permission to shoot inside the Union Carbide factory.

Some everyday images ending January 22 2013
Im not entirely sure why, but the order of how I uploaded these images is not represented here properly..